Chai Pani Asheville
It was a sunny Sunday morning as I approached Chai Pani at 32 Banks Avenue. A line of guests had already formed down the sidewalk as we waited for the doors to open. “It must be good!” I exclaimed awkwardly to the couple in front of me. “Oh, it is! Have you not been here before?” They replied. “No, I haven’t, but it has to be to have a line out the door on a Sunday morning!” I stated as the doors opened, and we began our march to the host desk.
In the entry, colorful floral garlands adorned the ceiling and windows, reminiscent of the festive décor of a land and culture that is very unfamiliar to me. Distinctive Indian music made the entire atmosphere dance as it piped through the sound system. On tables in what resembled a little market area in front of the restaurant were little boxed collections of curry and masala with Spice Walla emblazoned over them. Yes, you could smell the spice just from being in the room!
“How many?” The hostess asked as I approached the desk. “Just me!” I replied. “Something at the bar?” “Sure.” “Follow me, right this way.” She led me just around the corner to a neatly preset bar that spanned the width of the entire front section of the restaurant. I took my seat at the far corner and was immediately taken with the exceptional floral décor, murals, and trim adorning the dining area.
Being the only person at the bar, I had the immediate and full attention of the bartender, a neat and amiable young lady sporting a very clean pix hairstyle and brimming with laidback Asheville charm. She poured a glass of water for me and, leaving the bottle, asked, “What’ll ya have?”. I requested a Mango Lassi and Bhel Puri to start. Now, a Mango Lassi is a non-alcoholic yogurt-based drink with, you guessed it, mango! It also has a hint of cardamom and was garnished with a mint leaf.
The Bhel Puri is an intriguing and generous plate of puffed rice, broken pooris (a type of bread?), boondi (fried chickpea flour things), green chilies, and red onion, with tamarind and green chutney, and sev. Sound complicated? Well, it’s deliciously spicy with a little sweetness and a whole lotta crunch!
I kept eyeballing the menu. There was such a variety of things that to me are fairly exotic, not in what they were per se, but in the spices, combinations, and techniques unique to Indian cuisine. The bartender had been doing an excellent job of preventing me from developing ‘table for one syndrome’. She was vigilant from a distance, checking in on occasion without being overly attentive and chatty. She approached me again, and I asked for a Lime Ricky, which is basically a raspberry lime soda. I also got a Local Greens Uttapam. Now, an uttapam is a savory pancake that is sort of like a vegan version of a frittata with a mix of in-season veggies or whatnot embedded in the batter.
These portion sizes were generous. They are sharable, so I had to practice some restraint and plan on a to-go box or three; otherwise, I would have eaten my way under the bar and required an intervention from the staff! At this point, the couple I’d met in line had determined that I most certainly wasn’t a mugger, or if I was, there is no way I could catch them anyway, so they stopped by to check on me before they headed out the door. “So how is it?” They inquired, smiling. “It’s great!” I replied! “I’m still placing orders!” I said with a grin. They laughed and waved as they departed.
I was now on a hunt for the bartender, only too eager to inflict an order of butter chicken on what was now a hopping kitchen. She returned from some tables she’d picked up and took my order. In a few short moments, a young man with a lean runner’s build and blond ponytail approached with a steaming order of butter chicken. He talked me through all the accoutrements, sides, and bread. It was a full multi-course meal in and of itself! Absolutely delicious!
Having made a complete glutton of myself, I called for a box and the check. The staff brought three! It was an excellent experience, and I would absolutely recommend Chai Pani not just as an occasional restaurant but a serious hang-out spot. They have something for nearly everyone, it’s relatively affordable, and the service is outstanding. They are a James Beard Award winner, on the Michelin recommended list, and are rapidly expanding. More importantly, they were a World Central Kitchen hub in the wake of Hurricane Helene, combining their efforts with Cúrate and other resilient local restaurants. Chai Pani is another example of Asheville acting as both an incubator and crucible for world-class cuisine.
So go ahead and make your reservation today or just show up! You can also order delivery in the Asheville area. Don’t forget about their unique spice brand Spice Walla!
